Jeg fikk denne nylig og synes den var så nyttig at jeg legger den ut her.
Den inneholder alle de triks og forholdsregler man ikke finner i Haynes etc.
Den er skrevet av "CGAT" han med den blodtrimma CXen på ca 450 Hk.
Can if you cut the wing and inner wing off :-)
Diesel is the same as petrol, can be done in a day but allow three if you've not done one before.
I could (not done one for a while now phew) do it in 8 hrs without a ramp or an assistant. That's out and back in running! Did use two trolley jacks though.
It's not that bad a job if you're prepared, order a new camshaft extension carrier bearing for one and be prepared to grind the old off! A heater hose plastic tee piece and a de aerations tank, sealing ring between coupling and exhaust down pipe, engine oil and anti freeze and anything else. Are the driveshaft boots OK, The hydraulic feed pipes from the brake and steering accumulator to the suspension and brake/steering, clutch/ throttle cable, engine mountings crankshaft oil seal, camshaft oil seal in the distributor drive housing, breather hose on the back of the engine, shell bearings ETC 'you get the picture'
Don't disassemble the hydraulics, the pump and pressure regulator can be slid off the studs without breaking the pipes if you're careful (as you lift the motor up slowly and clears the battery tray), Take the heater intake box off, this will give access to the 11mm spanner size nuts securing the RH 'sat in the car' driveshaft extension
Anyways from memory. 'mine is a non aircon 2500 GTI Turbo1 series 2' a Haynes manual will put pictures to this and fill in the gaps for boring bits. I'm sure if I've missed anything someone will chip in :-)
Will add the standard 'I'm not saying do it like this, this is how I did it but it been a while. This way the unit is lifted out complete and the ancillaries can be removed later and easier.
1 Slacken driveshaft nuts (if you can't do this pointless having the car stripped and on blocks Stuck)
2 Cut some blocks from suitable material that will fit in the front and rear subframes to support the car on its bump stops at normal height 'front and rear'
3 Position car where it won't be cause obstruction if all goes wrong :-)
4 remove the heater box intake and gearbox splitter (watch the steel bush stays where it should in the gearbox and put the special bolt somewhere safe). Slacken and turn the rh driveshaft locking bolts found on the crankcase, get a short ratchet ring spanner for this once the initial tension has been released.
5 Jack and support the front of the 'car both sides' remove the driveshafts (CX gearboxes don't leak oil from the driveshaft splines so don't need to drain the box), LH short shaft may be stuck, don't force it at this point; cut the strap holding the INNER driveshaft boot on and watch for the triaxle rollers sliding off their respective peg as the shaft is slid out 'when the unit is out of the car this can be tackled with easier access'.
6 Reconnect the anti-roll bar links 'only nip up the nuts' and the lower arms 'fully tighten' find some big bolts and nuts that will act as temporary driveshafts these will keeps the hubs in place.
7 Put the wheels back on, lower the car to the ground and start it up; put it in to full height and slip the blocks made earlier in to the bump stop holes then put the car on it's lowest setting again so it sits on the blocks and the bump stops.
8 Jack it back up and drain the engine oil and water, loosen the rh gearbox mounting large nut and the 4 13mm spanner size bolts 'just slack' undo the exhaust coupling at the flexi and undo the lh bottom engine mounting bolt and clutch cable, intercooler/turbo hoses.' think that's it from underneath, it's been a while'
9 Put the car with the wheels fitted back on the deck again 'you have a rolling car still at normal height so a cranes wheels and jacks can be got under the car easily :-) plus the car can be moved out of the way of the raised engine. DON'T MOVE IT FAR UNLESS YOU FIT SOMETHING TO HOLD THE WHEEL HUBS ON, I.E BIG NUT AND BOLT TO STAND IN FOR THE DRIVESHAFT!
10 Remove the rad 'hoses at the water pump end' heater hoses at the tee piece and tank, throttle cable, fuel hoses, gear linkages and elec connections(multi plugs, earth strap on gearbox, reverse switch and large spade connections on the positive battery lead. Tricky bit now; release the pressure from the hydraulics via the bleed bolt on the pressure regulator 'just in case ;-) free the hp pump from the gearbox and its bracket remove the 11mm spanner size bolts and 17mm spanner size nuts securing the pressure regulator to the gearbox. Remove the bonnet marking around the hinges with a suitable marker so refitting in the same place is easily done)
11 Get the unit ready for lifting out using suitable straps 'source if you can a large turnbuckle, got mine from B&Q attach this between the crane or lifting gear and the front of the engine (Citroen have a plate that bolts to the waste gate) as a third adjustable lifting point. Loosen the top engine mount 'both bolts' leave a little tension in the bolt on the motor 'this will help keep it in place while refitting the subframe mounting bolt when its time to put it back, remove the nut from the rear bolt; with the motor supported by your preferred means of lifting manoeuvre the motor until the rear bolt can be removed at the same time move the gearbox mounting fully now the weight is off it; watch out the thing may want to swing forward, KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE SHIMS EITHER SIDE OF THE TOP MOUNTING THEY NEED TO GO BACK AS THE CAME OUT' as you lift the motor screw the turn buckle so the unit tips the diff casing downwards clearing the subframe and slide off the hydraulics 'pump and regulator' as they are lifted clear of the battery tray being careful not to bend or break the pipes (depends on condition too) sit them on the battery tray should be safe there.
12 With the motor clear now remove the ancillary parts ETC to repair what you will and replacement is reversal of this.
There could be something I've missed, if dosen't appear correct please comment :-)
I've rebuilt a gearbox in the car, a 2ltr when the reverse selector broke but I've always removed the 25s from the car it's easier in the long run.
Motor ut og inn igjen. - bytte cluch girboks.
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